Le Coutureve

{for hire} pop goes the Anda

2011-11-21T19:38:00.001+11:00

Here's a number for the fabulous diva of vintage hair, that rocks The Leopard Lounge, Mel. A colour blocked Anda pattern variation.

Mel has many fabulous vintage '60s and '70s dresses. One problem: polyester! This cotton ensemble lets her steam up the stage (without the sweat) in her band The Lang Langs.

Being a creative type, Mel set the brief and I happily, finally delivered on it. What movie star she is!

{diy 2} outdoor lounge cover

2011-10-25T21:42:00.000+11:00

An outdoor lounge cover.

Because sometimes you have uninvited guests.

One metre of clear PVC (table top protector) trimmed with bias binding, all the way around. Leave long ties of bias binding at the corners for tying to the lounge.

Shortcut: Sandwich the plastic between two pieces of bias binding (one on top, and one on the bottom) and stitch all three together with one long run of full width zig zag.

Dr Livingtsone, the black cat (who first made an appearance here) is on that lounge 9 out of 10 mornings. He approves.

{dying to be different 2} here comes the sun

2011-10-23T20:25:00.000+11:00

Two refashions

1. Hand dyed silk cotton top

2. Cut off jeans

Amaze balls! Even the buttons turned yellow

Thanks to iDye and iDye poly

Guessing competition: which is whiter, the cat or my legs?

...ready for summer

{diy} notions holder

2011-10-22T22:48:00.002+11:00

One day when I was browsing ebay I came across some listings from a haberdashery store that had closed down. I ended up with a box full of bias bindings for a steal. Now, following the advice of Male Pattern Boldness' sewing don'ts... we shouldn't hoard notions. But, ahem, for me, like threads (yes, the header of this blog is just one of my drawers of threads!), I subscribe to the notion 'freedom of design is freedom of selection'. Being creative is easy when you've got a full pack of crayons ;)

Which works well if you've got a container to put all your crayons in. When I bought the box of notions, I hadn't thought THAT far ahead. So I commandeered a cube and ended up with this, on the left. That is as neat as it ever got. The trouble was most of the time the towers of rolls fell over and tumbled out the front and back of the cube.

There had to be a better way. After a few months of my subconscious mulling it over I came up witht this easy project you can do yourself WITHOUT ANY POWER TOOLS... I didn't want to permanently alter my dear wooden cube. So, this is a method you can confidently use knowing it can be easily removed and only leave a few tiny holes left in the wood.

Curtain wire pack

What I used:

1. Pliers
2. Curtain wire pack with hooks and eyes
3. Ruler
4. Chalk
5. Wooden cube

1. Measure and mark where the wires will be hung

2. There's all three marks

3. Press firmly to make an impression,
then screw in the eyes (or hooks)

4. This wood was a hard so I did the last few turns
with the pliers

5. Cut your wire to length - the width of your space
(minus the length of a hook and eye)


6. Screw the hooks (or eyes - the opposite of what you screwed into the wood in 3.) into each end of the wire

Slide on your rolls and hook them to either side... phew! Notions nightmare sorted

If you're wondering what's in the middle there... it's an old wooden bobbin I picked up at the vintage fair :)

{cloth 2} the bag

2011-10-17T07:59:00.000+11:00

Cloth first made a mention on LeCoutureve, in the wardrobe cover makeover. They have fresh, Australian prints. Unrivalled in contemporary application. Australia flora featured in other fabrics (like quilting) range between too kitsch (think: tourist postcard and placemat) and too prissy (neat, soft 'English' arrangements that belie the 'rough as guts' appearance of the Australian bush). Cloth depicts wiry Australian flora in all its glory. They use rough linen and unruly patterns that ooze organic out of every fibre. I didn't need to check the tag, I knew this was made right here in my beloved bastard of a country.

Constructed with rough, layered seams to showcse the fabric's raw edges

this one has been gifted to Nanna Linda

{sewcial 2} vintage fair

2011-10-16T09:51:00.000+11:00

Going to the vintage fair. A step-by-step guide.

Step 1. Dress vintage.
Whilst '50s style Madmen ladies and Rockabilly is all the rage...
I subscribe to the steam age Victoriana!

Step 2. Check weather for travel by umbrella.
Mary Poppins taught me herself.

3. Prepare for take-off.
Up, up and away.

~ || ~

Later, at the show....

vintage goodies!!

Sequined bags

Hats!
With Pam (aka BurdaStyle's PamBox)

Jewels! Wonderful costume jewels.

{sustainable design 4} untouched world

2011-10-15T09:51:00.001+11:00

Source: http://www.untouchedworld.com/

Untouched World is a New Zealand clothing company that embodies the principles of sustainable design. They create timeless, modern designs using high performance, sustainable, luxury fabrics. Including ecopossum™ (luxurious merino & possum knitwear), organic mountainsilk™ (fine machine washable merino), organic cotton and bamboo collections.

Something you should know about me, is that I was one of those kids that belonged to every extra-curriciular activity and club (think Rushmore). One of those was the United Nations Youth Association. Where I would draft resolutions for the mock General Assemblies in which equally pronoid teenagers solved the world problems at state and national holiday camps, ahem, conferences.

So, I was delighted to discover Untouched World, was the first clothing company in the world, to use the United Nations Decade of Education for Sustainability emblem on their products. And thought you might like to check out their pieces.

Source: http://www.untouchedworld.com/

Source:http://www.untouchedworld.com/

{cloth} wardrobe makeover

2011-10-01T13:47:00.002+10:00

source: www.clothfabric.com

Introducing Australian fabric designer and maker, cloth

My colleague Cris, stumbled upon cloth's store in Little Buckingham St, Surry Hills, by accident, earlier this year. What a great find!

Impressed by their aesthetic, they were the first thing that came to her mind when she needed a wardrobe cover MAKEOVER. I am so glad she asked me to come along to help her choose the fabric pieces. I love their fresh Australian style.

Heavy fabric, rustic prints and raw edges. Cris did all the fabric placement herself. She is even bravely overcoming her fear of birds - with this great Aussie Currawong print.

Client: Friend Cris from work

Brief: Makeover this wardrobe cover!

Materials: decorating weight linen fabric

from Australian designer CLOTH Fabric

{giveaway winners} missoni DIY skirt kit

2011-08-20T12:12:00.001+10:00

Congratulations, you're all winners!

Thanks for entering Le Coutureve's giveaway. You all gave such great reasons, I went and put together more DIY skirt kits to give away. You will receive the Italian designer missoni fabric that your name appears on.

Anna Aa.;

katherine h;

Jali;

Bernice; and

littlebetty

receive the large ups and downs - the same I used in the suddenly summer dress

Keren; and

Carolyn

receive the little green peaks

And you all receive a metre each of the mokuba fold-over elastic for the skirt waistband. To receive your prize, email, passiona "at" me.com with your postal address. A cool, hand wash is all this fabric needs to keep looking its best.

Thanks to Colette at tessuti for featuring the dress and giveaway and introducing new readers to Le Coutureve. Have a lovely weekend.

{who's your...?} pattern girl double

2011-08-18T21:09:00.001+10:00

ASIDE: You've been waiting and it's unfair not to update you.
The skirt kit giveaway will be finalised in the next few days.
A special 'Hello' to new followers of Le Coutureve.

Pash's Pattern girl doppelganger: simplicity 5229

You won't be disappointed when you see the announcement
post ;)
Sorry for the Le Coutureve absence.
I've been working on an outdoor
project in the past week - more news
to come on that. Project Runway #6
coming soon and more.

Have you found your pattern girl double?

One day whilst pouring through vintage patterns online, I got a shock when I saw myself staring back at me. There she is above left. OK, so, on the right is the only available photo of me in a yellow turtle-neck. But pre-school or not, there's something going on, there.

It made me wonder: From where does the pattern cover artist take their inspiration? A girlfriend? The indelible impression of a pacing face on the street? Some are obvious - there are plenty of movie stars and celebrity inspired pattern cover girls!

Here's a Lady Di double on Neue Mode 22471. I superimposed the photo onto the right of the pattern cover. Because there really is no mistaking it!

Who have you seen in vintage pattern covers? Have you found yourself yet? Tell me which pattern! And do you agree that the photo covers spoil all this imaginative fun?!

Now, in folklore and legend seeing your doppelganger isn't always a good omen. So, maybe you can just count yourself lucky if you haven't!

And here's a test to take you out. Can you pick which one isn't Nicole Kidman?

... McCall's 2799, of course!

{sewing with wood} steampunked monitor

2011-08-10T08:14:00.000+10:00

one timber picture frame

a length of 19th century Passementrie

offcut from bluebird sewing machine desk

screws, timber

A definite improvement, wouldn't you say?

{Project Runway Australia Sew-a-long} Challenge 5: Grandma's Best

2011-08-08T22:07:00.001+10:00

Project Runway 5th challenge involved no models - instead family members of the contestants!

The brief: design their ultimate outfit

It must suit them to a tea, fit them like a glove and fulfill their every fashion fantasy

Budget $100

Time limit: eight-hours

Introducing... Nanna Linda!

A little about Linda...
1. She was wearing black before black was the new black... she insists she was the first in Sydney to wear ALL black (and I am not inclined to argue);

2. She commutes several hours every day to visit my grandfather in his nursing home, every day of the week (no days off for Linda!);

3. Has no time to launder with care nor iron her outfits;

4. She is terribly interesting, rich in character and full of stories!

This inspired the light, gauzy fabrics she can wear on her long walks and trips on public transport all this coming summer long.

Also, I made the design so it didn't need to be ironed - but still looks smart. I achieved this in two ways. First, I tried experimental ruching on the sleeves - to make a feature of the wrinkled look. Second, I placed the grosgrain ribbons down the front and on the sleeves to give the impression of clean lines - without having to iron.

The textured fabric in the skirt plays to her quirky ways.

Linda is happy with the fit. LOVES the colour and is absolutely tickled to have a new outfit!

{giveaway} missoni DIY skirt kit

2011-08-03T20:11:00.005+10:00

Win a length of the missoni fabric for a DIY skirt kit. Includes colour co-ordinated mokuba fold-over elastic, for the waist band.

To comply with Australian competition legislation, this is a 'game of skill': to be eligible to enter, be a follower of this blog (you can be one already or become one now) and comment on this blog entry with why you would like to win the kit.

Thanks for stopping by. This is competition is now closed - you can check out the winners here. And head to Le Coutureve for more giveaways.

{dress yourself} suddenly summer dress

2011-08-03T20:11:00.002+10:00

merino jersey acid yellow

with

missoni patterned knit from tessuti

today reached 26 dgrees. hottest august day in four years

and I had a dress to match

check out the DIY giveaway, too!

{Project Runway Australia Sew-a-long} '70s dress

2011-08-01T19:49:00.000+10:00

Week 4's challenge

100% merino wool jersey dress

ink navy blue and acid yellow

made within budget, within time frame

To brief: inspired by the 1970s

The dresses for the first two challenges were very runway - formal, glamorous affairs. Like wise the last challenge too glamorous for practical, every day wear. With this challenge, I made something to suit my corporate days. I have enjoyed the haute couture creations but this one is more ME!

Sturdily constructed with the over locker (and coverstitched cuffs) - this one is also built to last.

I switched over the lenses on my camera this week, so this time you can finally see the bottom of the dress (and my shoes!).

End with a bow!

{sustainable design 3} refashion

2011-07-27T07:17:00.001+10:00

Source www.m-c-q.com Fall 2010 lookbook

Refashioning is the reshaping of a 'used' clothing garment to extend its life and includes transforming its style. It can be subtle or dramatic. Unlike upcycling, which will be profiled in a separate instalment of this series, the starting point and ending point are both clothing.

The commercialisation of fashion has led to fast fashion and the planned obsolescence of styles before the garment has even worn out. It places fashion at odds with the very notion of sustainability. Never fear! Refashion is here. It can turn last season's shirt into this season's skirt!

Cottage-scale

You are only ever a couple of clicks away from a refashion co-op or group. Refashioning is perfect for the production of one-offs. Just check out Katwise on etsy to buy some, the refashion co-op to share your own projects and my own little refashion right here.

Large-scale

The use of refashioning as a basis for larger scale sustainable design poses some planning and supply challenges. How can you base a business around refashioning if the 'refashion' is bespoke and depends upon the quality, type and availability of the second hand clothing? Kim Fraser stared down this issue and discovered men's trousers were available in large enough quantities with a relatively standard shape and construction to support a form of mass refashioning... into ladies dresses! This resulted in the T-series of dresses. That capitalised on repeatability and productisation.

source: http://aut.academia.edu/KimFraser/Papers/424669/ReDress-ReFashion_As_a_Solution_for_Clothing_Un_Sustainability

Refashioning en masse is possible. And I'll hold the candle for the postive impact of the online sewing communities on mass one-off refashioning. Do you find it easy or hard to throw out clothing? Have you thought of refashioning?

And here's some more from McQ's Fall 2010... for parting refashion inspiration.

{Project Runway Australia Sew-a-long} Challenge 4

2011-07-26T07:29:00.001+10:00

1960s (source www.carlazampatti.com)

Guest Designer: Carla Zampatti.

Take inspiration from 40 years of Carla's work- the '60s, '70s, '80s, '90s

The brief:

Select your decade (lucky dip style) out of bag. Designers work in teams (well, in pairs) to a create two fashion forward looks - they pick a team leader. $180 in fabric store and 12 hours in total to complete!

1970s (source www.carlazampatti.com)

1980s (source www.carlazampatti.com)

1990s (source www.carlazampatti.com)

Random factoid: I attended first year Sydney Law School with Carla's daughter, Allegra!

{Project Runway Australia Sew-a-long} glamourous thrifting

2011-07-25T22:18:00.004+10:00

OK - running 60mins late... but here it is. On brief - made in under 8 hours. Voila

A modern day look for the glamorous girl around town. Made out of second hand clothes. Selected by someone else!

A tunic and skirt - makes for three different looks in one !!


1. Belted

2. Free (also great over leggings)

3. Tucked in

This third challenge of Project Runway Australia was hard. A refashion on its own is reasonable enough. Turning jeans or a shirt into a skirt is achievable. The hard part of this challenge was the "glamorous" brief. At best, second hand clothes are practical. At worst, unwearable. Seldom are they made of beautiful fabrics with which to create glamour.

This lined tunic top and skirt were each in their former lives a part of two terribly 80s/90s dresses. One encrusted with diamontes, the other emblazened with cheap gold buttons and admiral style pockets. urgh...

BEFORE - I achieved the challenge's twist by having someone else select the clothes for me

DURING - a little help from Dr. Livingstone. Not my cat, he just happens to call Livingstone House his home.

{giveaway winner} the art school affair beret

2011-07-20T19:37:00.001+10:00

Congratulations, Arlene!

You're Le Coutureve's first giveaway winner.

{Project Runway Australia Sew-a-long} Challenge 3

2011-07-19T20:56:00.002+10:00

Follow a-long with Project Runway Australia. Do each week's challenge before the next week's episode. Grab the badge and join in!

The Challenge

Create a chic, expensive day look for the modern girl around town.
From
A truckload of second hand clothes, with three minutes to fill three bags full.

8-hours

The Twist?

Hand the bags of clothes you selected to the designer on the left.

Is there is a thrift store near you? Easy!
And how to simulate the twist? Ask the shop assistant to fill a bag for you? Or, maybe fill one blindfolded!

I am excited by this sustainable design related challenge!

{Project Runway Australia Sew-a-long} a dress to impress Dannii

2011-07-18T18:13:00.000+10:00

Challenge 2

Completed within time limit (took 7.5 of the 8 hours allowed).

To brief: Clean simple lines with effortless glamour. Feminine, sexy, empowered. Quality and attention to detail.

Looking at Project D's sample dresses, there were many classically elegant looks (with seasonal interpretations). But they were missing one (this one!). I was careful not to make the design too fussy. I focused on simple lines that flattered. Another thing Dannii Minogue stresses to the contestants is that it has to be "commercial". So, my final design is one that is an 'easy fit' and can look great on lots of ladies (the sequins are on stretchable jersey around your middle). And, btw, Dannii LOVES Grecian (drape, drape)!

Details: floor sweeper dress, fitted sequined bodice with side zipper. All other fabric is silk. A gorgeous pale faille for luxurious drape on the skirt. And a lighter silk for a airier drape on the top.

I am really excited with how these challenges are expanding my skills. I made this entirely without a pattern or a toile. The first week's challenge was my own pattern which I made first in paper pattern pieces and then as a toile. This garment is again my own but is 100% free-form construction!

I even had time to make the perfect shrug - the pattern I credit to IchiGoGirl.

{sustainable design 2} garment miles

2011-07-14T07:29:00.000+10:00

Garment miles (and "food miles" in the context of food production) are all about measuring how many miles a garment has travelled to be on your back (or food has travelled to be on your plate). This is done with a view to understanding the environmental effect, and topically, the carbon impact, of those miles travelled.

The primary journeys
In fashion design, the primary journey of the garment to you can be broken down into three parts. First, from the place raw fibre is produced - for natural fibres (or, where the thread is synthesised, for synthetic fibres) - to the place those fibres and threads are woven, knitted or otherwise milled into a fabric. Second, from that place of fabric production to the place the fabric is cut and sewed. Third, from the place the garment is sewed to the shop where you buy it (the distribution).

Farrer, J. RCA, Fraser. K (2008) CONSCIENCE CLOTHING: POLARISATION
OF THE FASHION TEXTILE MARKET: Proceedings of the TIWC Hong Kong 2008

So, you see, home sewers are already saving on garment mileage by cutting out (so to speak) the journey from the fabric mill to the garment factory. Eliminating the garment distribution phase. The fabric comes direct to us!

Joan Farrer highlighted the third leg, the journey from the garment factory to you in her study "Conscience Clothing". The carbon emissions were calculated using the QANTAS carbon calculator. Simply select the place of origin of your garment "Made in ..." and then select your closest city and the carbon emissions are displayed for you.

For all consumers, when you're making the decision to buy clothes, choosing local not only supports local economies and cultures, it reduces your carbon footprint, too!

But wait there's more...

Additional garment line mileage
By sewing our own, we are saving on the sampling phase. It is a secondary journey, because it occurs once for a clothing collection. And it, therefore, must be divided across all the items in a collection or line. It is the garment sampling process. Garment sampling is comprised of the in-house production of samples by a designer and pattern maker working together as a proof of concept. And it is followed by the off-shore producer recreating the samples before mass-production is approved to commence. The transmission of the patterns themselves can be electronic, eliminating physical mileage. But the samples themselves must be sent back from the off-shore producer to the quality assurance or design team. Click, click. More miles.

Where does your fabric come from?
So are home sewers really making a difference? Admittedly, the fabric is still being distributed to fabric retailers. But there's no trip to and from the garment factory. Each and every saving adds up. Buying local clothing and fabric makes a difference.

Here's some Australian fabric producers:
Standardknit Fabrics
Certton
Both offer a great range of organic fabrics. Do you know some more? I am continuing to research this aspect. And have just discovered Australian Textile and Fashions magazine and TextileSource is also an online resource for you to discover some more producers yourself!

See also -
100 mile projects: A 100 mile diet, that in-turn inspired a 100-mile sustainable clothing project (albeit a controversial one) are pioneering initiatives highlighting the many benefits (and challenges) of sourcing locally.

{giveaway} the art school affair beret

2011-07-13T07:43:00.000+10:00

He was a student of political science, who wrote polemic poetry and wore a beret.

She was an arts student, who wore her slips and petticoats on the outside, where you could see the lace.

Italian angora blend jersey, fused with a layer of lace and trimmed with a black cotton jersey to sit gently on your skin.

Yours to win. Simply follow this blog and post a comment below, telling me where and why you would wear it.
(If you already follow, you only need to post a comment).

{Project Runway Australia Sew-a-long} Challenge 2

2011-07-11T21:47:00.000+10:00

This week's brief:

A dress for the spring/summer collection for Project D
Clean simple lines with effortless glamour. Feminine, sexy and empowered. Quality and attention to detail.
Eight hours to create it!
Fifteen minutes in the fabric store with just $80

Sound like something you could do? Come on, grab the badge, sew-a-long, upload here by this time next week!

{Project Runway Australia Sew-a-long} the first dress

2011-07-11T18:24:00.001+10:00

Finished - here's the first dress

Complies with project brief - single colour; in multiple fabrics; cocktail dress; expresses me!
Approx 11 hours - the designers on the show got 12 hours

The three fabrics are silk satin for the centre fabric. And silk organza has been layered over silk dupion to create the 'matte' side panels.

Like the designers on the show, the COLOUR I worked with is way out of my comfort zone. I haven't seen this much pink since BurdaStyle's Pink & Red Fashion Show .

Does it EXPRESS me? I like structured lines. It echoes the lines of my previous Time Traveller Airlines creation. It is modern classic.

In the SHOOT, (I only just realised) I failed to pan out so you could see the length! It sits just at the knee. And for the doubters - it's a complete garment. Hemmed. Lined. Fitted

Here's the rest of the competitors... do you think I made it through?

baby bunting

2011-07-08T19:04:00.001+10:00

Emmy is truly a delight to work with. When the day came for her maternity leave (today!) I wanted to give her something at least half as delightful as she is. Behold, baby bunting. Small bunting, for the baby room - or hers to brighten up wherever she wants.

Made from fabric swatches and samples from the local community centre, like this and these. Approx 90% reuse (from commercial excess) and 10% new bias binding. Spontaneous, creative gifts like these are the reason I like to always have some bias binding lying around.

A simple gift. From one home to another. Congratulations, Emmy!

{Crafty blogger tip #2} Make a badge (and why!)

2011-07-06T22:46:00.002+10:00

Badges are everywhere!

To sew-a-longs;

Like Gertie’s Lady Grey Coat Sew-Along Or, the Chanel Jacket sew along

To wear-a-longs:

Me Made March Self Stitched September

They are a two-way thing. Like wearing a real badge, the maker is trying to promote or spread something. And the wearer wants to express their allegiance or appreciation for that very thing. In the blogosphere that two way exchange takes place between two places on the web - between a blog and another site.You may use other blog’s badges to show you are joining in a sew-along. If you want to start your own, then you will need to make a badge other’s can use to show they are sewing-along.

Another use, is a form of recognition or reward. Like when you give out a badge for being a beautiful blogger. You can generate all manner of awards here , for anyone you deem worthy!

In this entry, I will be making a badge I can give to other blogger’s when I’ve featured them. Milena , the coolest vintage hairdresser I blogged about asked for one for her. So, here it is

1. Make your artwork

Like making a button on your blog, you will need a graphic.

See {Crafty blogger tip 1} for making a
artwork. Here’s a graphic I made
in powerpoint following
that tute.

2. Host your artwork

Hosting is placing your badge artwork in one place on the web that is publicly shared so that everyone that uses your badge doesn’t have to download and upload the artwork file themselves. By hosting it in one location, everyone that uses the badge just references that one location. There are plenty of sites that offer image ‘hosting’ for blogs. Some free sign-up hosting sites are listed here. Sign up, upload your artwork and make a note of the url it is shared at - you will be inserting that url into the html below, where the purple text is.

3. Decide on your destination url

The destination is where people who click on the badge will be taken, wherever the badge appears. For my "Golly, Passiona blogged about me badge" I have a generic link to my blog - this can be updated to the exact blog post where I blogged about the bearer. For my "Project Runway Sew-a-long" badge, the destination url is the flickr group where the sew-a-long garments are uploaded. Choose your url and make a note of it - you will be inserting it into the html below, where the burgundy text is.

Now you're all ready to make the gadget.

4. Make the gadget
How do I make the code available for someone else to post on their blog? Make a little html script like this one to place in an html/java script gadget on your blog. The first part of the code is a sample of the button, the second part is the code they copy to get the button - paste it all into the one html/java script gadget.

<a href="insert your destination url here"><img src="insert the url of your hosted artwork here" border="0"/></a>

<div style="width:180;background-color:#FFFFFF;border:1px solid #663300;">
<a href="insert your destination url here"><img src="insert the url of your hosted artwork her" border="0" /></a></div>

It will appear in a frame so anyone can cut an paste the html directly into a gadget on their own blog.

I wonder where I get my inspiration!

{Sustainable Design 1} intro to sustainable design

2011-07-05T21:04:00.000+10:00

Source: Pratt Institut

Sustainable design is a philosophy. Like so many 'concepts with a conscience' its meaning has become twisted and misused in marketing and advertising gumpf. Through a series of focussed articles I seek to redress this sorry state. Beginning with basics. In the context of fashion, it is designing to meet the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs. To achieve this, the design process must take into account a garment's creation, use and ultimate disposal.

An early exposure to the concept was in a BurdaStyle feature. Alabama Chanin's focus on the use of local artisans working with organic fabrics coloured with natural dyes seemed so perfect it had to be zen. Then there are its couture embellishments made from fabric scraps that would have otherwise been discarded. I really liked this. For more than I could put my finger on. At the time I was not conscious of the concept of sustainable design.

The next flash in the pan was the announcement of academic Alison Gwilt's contribution to a coming publication on nought couture ( a great name that caught my eye!). The book Shaping Sustainable Fashion was released a few month's ago and has been my constant companion on the commute to work. This has sharpened the concept for me and led to the discovery of more sources and practices. All of which will be shared in this coming series on sustainable design. With practical examples (of many things you probably already do!) so we can all work towards meeting the needs of future generations, as well as our own.

{Project Runway Australia Sew-a-long} Challenge 1

2011-07-04T21:08:00.001+10:00

The first challenge: a cocktail dress that expresses YOU as a designer

On the show, each designer is given a single stong colour to work with. Think red; yellow; peach; green; purple. Constraints foster creativity: maybe you have a bold colour in your stash? A garden party is an influence the designers were given at the challenge start (but is not an official part of the brief).

Are you up for it? You have until 8:30 next Monday 11th July. Upload at flickr.

Sew and create at your own level. Use a commercial pattern, make your own or free form.

Express yourself!

{Project Runway Australia Sew-a-long} Open Invitation

2011-07-04T18:16:00.000+10:00

Project Runway Australia launches tonight at 8.30pm on Arena. Le Coutureve is hosting a sew-a-long! Each Monday night, after the show, you'll find the brief posted here. Opt-in and out as it pleases you. Design and sew to your own level.

Grab the badge and join in! Upload your finished garments to the FlickR group. And I'll feature you here, too!

Try and upload your artwork before the following week's show.

in-fringing style

2011-07-03T18:25:00.000+10:00

{Vintage luxe #1} Antique trim

2011-07-02T06:16:00.000+10:00

From the pages of a 19th century salesman's book of Spanish trim. It was a time when real metal was used liberally in trims. And it results in lustre unrivalled by its contemporary counterparts.

Sourced from a collector of rare antique fabric remnants, Lisa Genesta. I spend a long time admiring her pieces. She has just listed some more here and here

Embracing vintage is an environmentally sound initiative. This piece is so much more than that. To me, this is art. And will be framed and hung, accordingly.

Fabriculicious: Project Runway launch party

2011-07-01T18:32:00.001+10:00

I'm serving up an inside scoop for you.

The Launch Party of the third season of Project Runway Australia hit a sweet note. And there is much to celebrate. With a new host - Megan Gale, the former face of up-market department store, David Jones - and a new mentor - Alex Perry who says he believes in, "tough love".

But how unbelievable are the cupcakes! Noren Woo of Woo Cakes stole the show, don't you think? Look at the print on the tiny Louis Vuitton bags. And zippers, buttons and spools of thread! Make a note of her deets for your next do! m.0410 560 190 or norenwoo@hotmail.com

The series premieres on Arena, Monday July 4th at 8.30pm.

{Crafty blogger tip #1} Add a button to your blog

2011-06-30T21:14:00.002+10:00

So, you’re crafty but not codey?

At the last BurdaStyle Sydney catch up dearest Molly asked how to add a clickable button to her blog. Here, I will show you how. The button can link to a distinct page on your blog or to a page of search results on a particular theme (blog label). This step-by-step is illustrated with “Sewing Through the Decades” as an example.

If you are hi-tech…

(or wannabe and don’t mind deep-ending it), look at a button on a blog you like and right click to either “View Source” (in IE) or “Inspect Element” (in chrome rocks) or similar action available on your browser. That will give you access to how that button was coded.

One of Molly's favourite blogs, Tilly and the Buttons has neat buttons and this picture shows inspecting the element in chrome. Voila the source code of Tilly’s button will appear for you. Copy the code and replace the elements (image source url with one to your own picture and replace the destination page url to your own url) before pasting it into a gadget on your blog.

If you aren’t…

Here’s your step by step guide:

1. Create your artwork

To make your button you will need an image to appear as the clickable graphic on your blog. If you’re using a straight photo (without any writing on it) than that is easy – go straight step 2. If you want to layer some words over your picture, you can do this easily in powerpoint or keynote by i) dragging your picture onto the slide.; ii) inserting a text box onto the picture and writing what you want (e.g. “Sewing through the Decades”); iii) Save the finshed product as an image (jpg or png file). In power point you do this by, selecting both the image and the text box, right clicking and “Save as Picture” . In Keynote you can share or export the slide as a jpg or png. And you’ve made your graphic!

2. Decide on your destination url

If you are linking to a web page (e.g. another page on your blog), that is easy. Just keep the url to that page at the ready. If you would like to link to an auto-generated page that lists all your blog entries with a particular label, then it is a two step process. First, click on the label you want to be the basis for your button on any of your entries that have it. Second, you will now have been taken to an auto-generated page that lists all your blog entries with that label. It would look something like this

http://lecoutureve.blogspot.com/search/label/%22sewing%20through%20the%20decades%22 now, keep that url to the new page at the ready.

Don't have any labels on your blog entries?! It’s never too late. You can easily go back into each one and add a label (or three)!

That’s the hard lifting out of the way. Now you’re ready to put it on your blog.

The steps to follow:

Create your button artwork
Decide on the destination for your button (either a distinct web page or an auto-generated results page)
Go to Blogger "Dashboard"
Click on the “Design” link
Close to where you’d like the button to appear, click on “Add a gadget”
Choose the “Picture” gadget
Upload your button artwork (that you made in step 1) using the file chooser
Paste your destination url into the “link” box

Happy crafty blogging!

dying to be different: second chance silk tunic

2011-06-13T22:37:00.001+10:00

salvaged silk dress

dyed

unstitched

restitched

and remodelled: defrilled and belted

This dress had great bones. A divine silk damask fabric. Fitted yoke, grandpa collar, generous cuffs. And the finest row of self covered buttons, a dozen on the cuffs! Irresistible. So I respectfully fulfilled its wish for a new life, liberating it from Anglicare, Summer Hill.

But, urgh. The insiped coulour, stained upper arm and frilled hem: had to go! Enter, DIYers... you know what follows. But for those that don't:

1. DYING

After a small poll (thanks, Nieve!) the iDye Brilliant Blue won. First dye bath of half a packet of iDye (for natural fabrics) in Brilliant Blue. Then, I realised I had forgotten an iDye poly to cover the synthetic stitching. I dyed again. The second bath with the other half of the iDye Brilliant Blue and half a packet of iDye Poly Blue. Unfortunately, the stitching didn't take beyond a pastel blue. Though, the silk did benefit from the second bath and took on a stronger hue.

2. UNSTITCHING

A couple week's of train trips to unstitch. First, the facing stitching that refused the colour. And, second, the frilled hem - gross!!

3. RESTITCHING

Let's not understate this. Each and every facing seam restitched. From collar to hem. Oh, and thread really does come in every colour. I found a perfect match in this scanfil #1355

4. REMODEL

Picked up the discarded ruffled hem. Ungathered it. Fashioned it into a new belt!

-> NEW LIFE

The recycling's done!

silk jersey top

2011-06-12T15:35:00.001+10:00

silk jersey remnant rescued from tessuti

mokuba fold-over elastic trim

stretch interfacing

Silk jersey. Slinky, fine. A gorgeous drape. Don't leave it to the likes of Calvin. Just watch Cesar in The Fashion Show effortlessly turn out gown after gown in this gorgeous fabric, to give your confidence to work with it a boost.

The edges are finished with an overlocked rolled hem. But it wasn't becoming of the silk's lustrous finish.... what to do, what to do...? Mokuba fold-over elastic has a similar sheen and fine profile. Done.

The sloper that came from my variation of the Lydia top has proven its worth again.

birthday pouch

2011-06-07T22:38:00.000+10:00

On location at Grandma's

handmade zipper pouch

main fabric: 100% reuse of designer fabric swatch

red satin bias binding as seam finishing

Thomas Sabo red dress charm as detail on the zip

Happy birthday Fiii Fiii

pash @ the leopard lounge

2011-05-27T21:27:00.002+10:00

I love organic and vintage as much as the next eco-retro (retreco?) girl. But I never expected them both from a hair salon. When I went searching for an organic local I was hit like a lightning bolt by the fabby-gorgeois-stylista-bliss-bomb-of-all-things-poptasticly-sexy, Milena and her Leopard Lounge.

So when Milena planned to open a new salon, I was honoured to sew her luxe wall of curtains - check them out.

There is so much more to her store than the curtains.

Isn't she just the most amazing interior designer?

And she's been voted one of InStyle Magazine's Top Ten stylists.

Milena even makes her own range of hair care organic products. Wow.

You will love Newtown's newest and coolest salon.

I'll close with Campbell's soup curtains ;)

{sewcial} burdastyle day

2011-05-20T21:30:00.000+10:00

Happy BurdaStyle Day!

A cold night in Sydney. Warmed by a common thread. Pam, Hollie and I were in attendance at tessutti Wynyard. Clad in our very own creations, to mark the occasion.

Our surprise host, tessuti's very own Colette, put on a lovely spread.

Then onto stitch bar...

... and joined by Sandra !

grr lowlight blurrr...

the sunday pocket bunting

2011-03-27T10:43:00.002+11:00

100% reuse

zero waste

What were once coloured fabric swatches have found new life as pocket bunting.

In order to achieve zero waste the entire piece of each swatch (uncut) had to be used. They have been folded under to create pockets.

Five little cards have been placed in the pockets. An aspiration, one for each day of the working week, written across the back.

the night before cardigan

2011-03-26T09:23:00.004+11:00

100% wool fabric and trim with leather buttons

This wool fabric made its way into my home. Mainly because I'd never before seen anything like it in a fabric store. It looks like some one has taken a thick ply wool and knitted a diamond pattern in it. And yet it has the sturdiness of a woven.

But it takes more than a fabric to make a garment. Fabric needs notions.

This shade of blue was proving difficult to pair. Somewhere between navy and royal blue. I had considered custom dyeing ribbing. After many months of loneliness. It finally made a match. With a mokuba wool trim. And real leather buttons.
When something has been in your mind for that long, it coalesces. And by the time I sat down to it last night, it felt like it was making itself. It even devised its own pattern variation - the BurdaStyle Andrew minus facings and ribbing with raised centre front.

A handmade gift, that isn't cheap. That came together in a night, after months of thought.

for the special man's birthday

blog bookmarks

2011-03-11T21:39:00.004+11:00

What is the most rewarding form of discovery?

This weekend bookmarks will be distributed for this blog. Real bookmarks, for a virtual blog. This poses the philosophical question (and creates the social experiment): if you give someone a bookmark, will they do the same to your blog, in return?

They are, after all, made from the finest-Italian-designer-fabric-come-eco-reuse (after being de-stashed from the local community centre). Now doesn't that just push all your culturally elitist and environmentally aware buttons at once?

Where will you find them and what will become of them?

Let's find out.

Update 12th March: First drop.

do you compete?

2011-03-10T22:44:00.002+11:00

Some of last year's comps. Click to enlarge.

Entering competitions are a great way to build up your skills.

On a personal level, deadlines, feedback and accolades can do wonders. The discipline of working within a 'brief' and time limit can be great motivators. No matter what your creative pursuit, claiming a prize can give you the confidence to propel you beyond your current limits. And even if you don't win, you can gather valuable feedback on your style and skills

At a social level, competitions expose your work to your peers and industry players. Check out who's on the judging jury. They are often industry influentials and players. Like editors of magazines that could showcase your work. You also get to attend 'the event' and share that experience with those close to you... it might even be their first introduction to the fact that you sew.

I am thinking about what to get into this year, and put together this runsheet of the year ahead's competitions. It has a local focus, and for my dear international friends I explicity mention if it's for international entries or not. But e-v-er-y-o-n-e don't forget to keep an eye of the competitions section of BurdaStyle here for those out-of-the-blue comps that could change your craft for ever!

{ International*** Design Awards }

Entries close March 15

Maybe a little late for this year's but one to aim for in the years to come.

{ Australian Wool Fashion Awards }

All ages and disciplines including a wearable art section. The focus is on using wool! All categories cost $44 except: 'wool 4 skool' is free; secondary is $22; women ready to wear is $110.

Entries close April 1^st

I love merino wool

{ Fashion Less Waste }

The Australian Museum's eco-conscious comp has both student and open categories. One entry limit. Design and make an outfit out of materials that were bought for a non-clothing purpose. Entry $15.

Entries due April 21st

Two of Peppermint Magazine's senior staff are on the jury, weeee!

{ Fashion Awards Australia }

For secondary college, TAFE/tertiary college and open designers.

Entry forms become available April/May

{ Tessuti Awards }

All ages – free entry, well almost: make something with tessuti's exquisite fabrics to the category brief. The category details are usually available July with entries open through to September.

I can't recommend this competition enough.

{ The Flair Awards }

All ages and a variety of categories. $35 entries for students and $55 for non-students.

Entries due June 24^th

{ Chambord Shine Awards }

This is a glamorous competition where ten finalists are selected and then given cash to create a final piece.

Usually held mid-year

{ FTV Designer Awards }

The subscription Fashion TV channel (FTV) inaugurated a fashion design award in Australia in 2010. This is another one I'll be on the look out for and hope it returns this year.

Usually held mid-year

{Spring Racing Carnival Fashion Awards }

There are quite of few around the nation - they deserve a dedicated post closer to the event.

{Apex Australia Teen Fashion Awards }

For 13- to 18-year-olds. Entry is $30.

State finals usually held in October

Ok, these are not for me, but maybe for someone you know ;)

{ Love Lace Awards }

Have a dedicated 'fashion' category. An event run by the Powerhouse Museum.

I can't quite tell when their next call for entries will be... but these are truly international*** affair!

Tell me what I've missed!

prep me: the 5 minute belt

2011-03-09T21:47:00.004+11:00

one yard of webbing

one belt buckle

Today, the cotton webbing arrived from acafterglow on etsy. Intended, of course, for bags! Hayley saw the webbing in its parcel on my desk at work and suggested a belt. And she was right, this one decided it wanted to be a belt instead.

Did I mention I work full-time? These quick and easy projects are so rewarding. I admit it takes a little planning in advance to have the right materials at hand, but when you do, it can all come together quite quickly.

The cotton is so lovely and soft (but so very strong). And this off-centre argyle is all the prep I need. The buckle is from All Buttons (and for a low cost alternative, I recommend exonerating one from an old belt). These low rise G-Star's really needed a lift!

quit your day job: DIY labels (that are washable!)

2011-03-03T20:03:00.001+11:00

I have seen tutorials for (and even bought clothing with) labels printed with computer printers onto iron-on transfers, only to see them wash out after the first wash - leaving a blank label! So, I came up with this method myself with what I had around. Fabric paint from stencilling (Alabama Chanin projects), plain fabric (called calico here in Australia and the UK) I use for toiles (aka muslins), a scrap of sponge, a laundry marker... and the only bought item: a rubber stamp.

The rubber stamp was an experiment. It was sold in the shop for paper craft and I wasn't sure if it would work for fabric and fabric paint... but I am pleased to confirm the hypothesis has now been proven.

What you need to do:
1. Place the sponge in a plastic tray (like an ice cream container lid or take-away container lid)
2. Dollop sponge with fabric paint
3. Press rubber stamp onto sponge
4. Stamp your plain fabric (it will take a couple goes to get the amount of paint and pressure right - you may need to do an initial blotting)
5. Iron your stampings to set the fabric paint
6. Write on your labels with a laundry marker
[if your fabric pen also needs to be set by an iron, write your labels before setting them with the iron]
7. Cut out your labels and either, sew them into your garments, or, attach them with ribbon and a small brass safety pin as swing tags

Experiment with colours, shapes and fabrics. Find your 'look and feel'. I've even used them for gift tags. So it's handy to keep blank ones lying around.

rainy afternoon: easy (no sew!) clothes line

2011-03-01T21:27:00.004+11:00

reuse fabric scraps

occupy the kids

have a little fun

Click on picture to enlarge

Now peg them to the line and you're done. For kids (and even big kids) there is a learning process in getting the clothes looking right. Have enough scraps to allow for starting over.

The cost of this project is just $3 for the tiny pegs from Riot! Art & Craft (and there are plenty left over for other crafty things). The fabric scraps, twine, *fiskars scissors, pen and paper are all close to hand.

*check-out the fiskars unzipped tutorial competition on BurdaStyle

the taking liberties shirt

2011-02-28T07:23:00.000+11:00

altered pattern in a liberty fabric

Based on pattern 2010/5 from Burda (available here)

With liberty fabric destashed from here

Wooden buttons from here

This is the first button down shirt I've sewn. I recommend using using a button sew-on foot (bernina #18). There's 10 buttons, including the cuffs. The cuffs, frilled collar and mini sleeve cap detail are my own design (I took some liberties with the original pattern). The frill inside the collar is inspired by a shirt of my mother's I admired as a girl.

The use of vintage fabric, continues the theme of reuse in the creations you find here at Le Couturêve. It's not a platform for this blog per se. It's (thankfully) a theme far too ubiquitous (in the crafting scene) for that. Nonetheless, it's a page the mass production methods of the fashion industry could take a leaf out of.

In time for Autumn.

first blogging week: in the bag

2011-02-27T22:42:00.001+11:00

first week of Le Couturêve

thanks for stopping by

a bag a day: the orient reverse bag

2011-02-26T14:23:00.000+11:00

for grandma

Nana Linda's lifestyle is strongly influenced by the Orient. You can see it in her furnishings and clothing. She has been to the East many times. Her husband (my grandfather) was a prisoner of war of the Japanese and formed friendships with his captors that endure to this day. She is a sensational lady and deserves an equally sensational bag for her day-to-day things.

It started with a vintage chinoiserie fabric sample - purchased from this shop on etsy (though most of her stock is now here on ebay). Both sides of the fabric are lovely, and I couldn't decide which to use... solution: make it reversible!

The contrast panel is a silk and linen blend - from tessuti. The seams are covered in a burnt gold grosgrain ribbon.

a bag a day: the sunshine prep satchel

2011-02-25T01:20:00.000+11:00

Practical with a sunny disposition.

Made from a single freedom furniture lounge fabric swatch from the local community centre. Zero fabric waste = nought couture. Add yellow trim to blue webbing. And a zip. That's all it takes to hold a macbook air and its power connection pack.

a bag a day: the granola hessian bag

2011-02-24T07:57:00.000+11:00

100% reuse

a piece of hessian and an oddment

This is the bag for shopping at the organic, biodynamic, whole food stall. And anti-logging protests. Anywhere where the guys don't wear shoes, the women don't wear bras and dogs have lengths of rope for leads.

The bag is big. It has a pleat centre top on each side, and a gusset. Which makes it big enough for a whole pumpkin, and then some.

But its curve hugs the waist and hip, so it never looks too bulky.

This strap is the statement piece. Its fraying edges blend with the coarse hessian.

Peace, love and mung beans xo

a bag a day: the curtain market bag

2011-02-23T07:20:00.000+11:00

A shopper bag. Light enough to crumple and fold into a smaller bag. Large enough for groceries. I do not think you have to sacrifice style for practicality when it comes to super market bags (ladies!). And this bag has the following features to prove it.

Reinforcing with bias binding means I don't have to second guess how much I try to stuff into the bag. It will hold. And cotton (and jute) webbing are my favourites for handles that are both comfortable and will last.

Seams reinforced with bias binding.

Handles lined with cotton webbing and stitched for durability.

On re-use. This fabric lay dormant for two-and-a-half years. It was cut off a 'ready-to-hang' store bought curtain (that was too long for its hanging space). The chocolate pattern is flocked (in a raised velvet) and is luscious to the touch.

a bag a day: the summer lace bag

2011-02-22T07:55:00.000+11:00

On the hottest of hot summer days, you choose a dress so light it floats. And this is the bag to match that dress. Light as air. It's not going to hold everything. Just a dainty for a garden party or to glam up a summer night.

A gorgeous lace embroidered netting fabric from tessuti. I started making a top from it. But it is so light, I would have to line it or wear a nude cami. And it seemed a shame to place anything against this fabric, except the light.

a bag a day: the jute strap bag

2011-02-21T07:37:00.001+11:00

A hold-all over the shoulder bag.

In the daily commute, ladies tend to have a fancy handbag and then a (not-so fancy) carry bag for everything that doesn't fit in the handbag. As if no-one can see the carry bag?! This creation solves that by taking it all: packed lunch; cardigan; umbrella; make-up bag and novel with ease.

It is made of just three things. One length of jute webbing from etsy. One ex-freedom furniture decorator fabric swatch (admittedly, of a generous size). And one YKK zip. The zip and the fabric were the same length - meant to be. And no waste. Using an entire piece of fabric like this without leaving any scraps is called "nought couture"

The jute strap is surprisingly comfy. Sturdy but not cutting nor itchy. And great for a rustic look.

I adore the leafy pattern woven into the black fabric.

a bag a day: the vintage handle bag

2011-02-20T20:47:00.002+11:00

100% reuse.

That's not to say the material itself isn't new. It is! You know those fabric swatch books in decorator stores? That's what the outside of this bag is made from - two swatches.

And fabric swatch books aren't just for decorator fabrics, either. Fabric wholesalers/importers have them too for ALL types of fabric! That's what the lining is made from. Yep, another swatch.

You will find plenty of individual swatches for sale on etsy. I find mine at the local community centre.

The handles are vintage. Aren't they great? Keep an eye out for some on an old handbag next time you're in a thrift store. They're easy to work with. You can buy them new in quilting/embroidery stores.